Since I post process my RAW files in the computer, consistently with increased sharpness and contrast for landscape photos, I want the photos I see on the camera screen to look similar to what my post processed images.Īnother reason is camera specific. I forgot to mention that the adjustment also will affect the photo display on the camera's LCD screen. "Well, you shoot in RAW only, why bother to change this?" you might ask. This only will affect the Jpeg photos the camera takes. I often make a one time adjustment to set my default picture style to "Landscape" and change camera's default definition of "Landscape" - by boosting sharpness and contrast. Overall, Adobe RGB gives you much more color information to display across various media, that's why it's another adjustment I set immediately after I get a new camera. If you want to produce precise colors from the beginning to the end, you may want to learn color calibration across different systems, which is a more advanced topic that I can elaborate in future post. One important note is that no matter what color space you choose to shoot with, you'll find different colors on different displays, from your camera LCD screen, to your computer screen, and prints. It allows you to produce more striking and accurate colors on your prints. Now when it comes to print, using Adobe RGB makes a big difference. When you upload photos online, your photos will only display in sRGB color space, no matter you embed sRGB or Adobe RGB color space in your photos. Nevertheless, sRGB is a standard color space used for web display. If you have the choice to see on your computer screen more vibrant colors that you have captured with Adobe RGB, instead of the dull colors with sRGB, which one would you prefer? As a landscape photographer, you are dealing with beautiful colors in the nature. Change Color Space from sRGB to Adobe RGBĪdobe RGB is a bigger color space and allows you to produce more vibrant colors, on screen and in prints. In a nutshell, I'm a strong advocate of shooting in RAW, and typically make this adjustment immediately after I get a new camera - it's only one time adjustment, and I don't have to worry about it, ever.ģ. Well - if your post processing time on each image takes no more than a few seconds (like in my case, see this video tutorial for my post processing), and the retouched photos from RAW files look much better than their Jpeg equivalent, would you still bother to shoot Jpeg, even as a backup? Some people might think keeping a copy of Jpeg files can save time in case they need quick delivery. I keep a simple workflow of importing my RAW files into hard drives and back up my hard drive frequently, as my backup system. The fact is: if you only care about RAW files (like I do), an extra copy of Jpeg files is useless. I'm especially against saving RAW and Jpeg files at the same time, although it sounds like a great way to backup photos - you keep two copies on two cards, in case one is lost, you have another. Although mine has two, I never used two memory cards at the same time, not because I don't have two cards, but because I don't think it's necessary. This following screen is for cameras that have 2 memory card slots. But if you care about photo quality and want to have the flexibility to post process your image, you want to shoot in RAW. Therefore if you don't have enough storage space in your hard drive, or you don't have enough space on your camera's memory card, shooting Jpeg is a wise solution. For example, a RAW file produced by my Canon 5D Mark III could be around 25MB, but its Jpeg equivalent could be only 5~6MB. On the flip side, RAW files are much larger. In particular, those photos are about the places and moments you see only once in a life time. Even you are not keen on post processing right now, shooting RAW format will give you flexibility to restore information for any important photos you take. Jpeg format is compressed and contains much less information than RAW format files. Note I use Canon 5D Mark III so the menu could be different from yours, but most of these settings are available in other DSLR cameras. Below are my camera LCD screen captures for these adjustments. Many of you might have paid extra attention to my ISO, aperture, shutter speed or even zoom range settings, but few might know that you can be much more efficient to make a one-time adjustment on default camera settings before you head out for landscape photography. I mentioned my camera settings in several examples of my 3P photo creation process, such as 3P Creation for Palace of Fine Arts, 3P Creation for Golden Gate Bridge.
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